RUSTIC PINE FLOORING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

PRE-INSPECTION

Prior to installation the floor must be inspected for:

• Quality – Check      the quality and verify the material is as requested
• Quantity – Verify      the amount is correct
• Colour – Verify      the colour is correct
• Size – Verify the      widths are correct
• Moisture – Confirm      the moisture content of floor and sub-floor are within 2% to 2.5% of each      other

If you suspect anything is incorrect with your floor, DO NOT install. Please address all issues prior to installation. INSTALLATION IMPLIES ACCEPTANCE.

ACCLIMATIZATION

Place your flooring in the room where you plan to install. Allow 7 to 10 days for the wood to acclimatize. This is important – the wood needs to expand or contract based on the space’s relative humidity. Failure to do so may cause gaps to appear in the seams or lifting of the boards due to expansion once installed.

SAFETY

Always wear proper safety glasses, dust mask and gloves when cutting or installing flooring. Follow the proper safety procedures highlighted by the tool manufacturers.

INSTALLATION

All sub-floors must be free of oil, debris and any adhesive residue. It is recommended installers follow National Floor Manufacturers Association guidelines.

Flooring should be installed perpendicular to the joists or on a diagonal (45 degree maximum) for any single layer of sub-floor. If installation parallel to the joists is required, then add an additional layer of minimum ½” sub-floor or brace between joists with 2x6 every 24” minimum.

Prior to installation place building paper to reduce squeaking and noise. Overlap and tape.

Snap a working line parallel to the starting wall allowing ¾” expansion space between the starting line and the edge of the first plank run. The expansion space must be left around the perimeter and at all vertical obstructions.

Lay one row of flooring along the entire length of the working line. This row should be top nailed and blind nailed. This will also be the case with the last row.

Stagger the end joints a minimum of 6” between pieces on adjacent rows.

Be sure to install the widths as you planned when you ordered. For example: 6”, 8”, 10”, repeat. Failure to do so will leave you with too many widths of one kind when you reach the other side of the room.

NAILING

Blind nail (45 degrees) through the tongue using 2” barbed flooring cleat, 7d or 8d flooring nail or 2” 15 gauge staple with ½” crown. Face nail using a finishing nail. Fasteners should be spaced every 8”.

GLUING

Gluing boards down can help reduce any cupping that may occur, particularly on the wider 8” and 10” widths.

Apply construction adhesive (ie PL Construction Adhesives) to the back of the board about 1” in from the edges. Apply a bead to the centre of the board using an “S” pattern. Do not apply adhesive to the tongue or groove.

Nail as above in addition to the glue.

FACE SCREW

As an alternative to gluing, face screwing is an option. Install the floor using nails as described above. When complete, place a screw in each of the four corners of every board.

Then, starting from a wall perpendicular to the flooring, snap a working line every 12” to 20”. You decide where to place the line. Try and have the line cross over as many end-matched splices as possible. Screw each side of every board along the working line.

The screws should be made flush with the surface of the floor. Be sure to use threadless shank flooring screws (do not use drywall screws).

Antique nails are a suitable aesthetic addition, but keep in mind, since they are not threaded, they will not hold the floor board down and are really for appearance only.